Estate Tweed holds a special place in the heart of British Heritage, weaving together history, craftsmanship, and modern sophistication. When Alexander Johnston wove his first Estate Tweed in 1844, he could hardly have imagined that this humble cloth – designed for function and practicality – would evolve into a symbol of Scottish artistry, gracing the runways of iconic fashion houses and earning his Scottish woollen mill Royal recognition. As we celebrate International Tweed Day 2025, we reflect on one of the most iconic Estate Tweed patterns, the Glenurquhart, and its enduring connection to the Balmacaan and Johnstons of Elgin.

Among these storied patterns, the Glenurquhart – sometimes known as Glen Check – remains one of the most cherished and influential Estate Tweeds to this day. It was first designed in 1840 by Elizabeth MacDougall of Lewiston and woven at the local Drumnadrochit mill in the tranquil Glen Urquhart, near Loch Ness. The Glen Check’s traditional twill weave, paired with its timeless black-and-white palette, evokes the quiet elegance of the Highlands. Over the years, the design has evolved, incorporating rich earthy tones of green, brown, and grey – colours that echo the very landscape of the Scottish glen. It’s no wonder that in the early 1850s, Caroline, Countess of Seafield, chose this cloth for the Balmacaan Estate Tweed and we received our first order for Glenurquhart tweed.

For those who wear Glenurquhart tweed, it is more than just a fabric – it’s a connection to heritage, to the land, and to the artisans who have poured their hearts into its creation. Edward, Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII), frequently a guest of the Scottish Highland estates, was an early champion of the Glen Check, using it as a symbol of rugged, aristocratic style. His grandson, King Edward VIII (later Duke of Windsor), continued this tradition, further elevating the Glenurquhart as a fabric that was both timeless and modern.